Friday, July 8, 2011

Day Two 2011 SCS Youth Nationals, Stone Summit, Atlanta GA

Day two of the 2011 SCS Youth National Championships is wrapped up here in Atlanta at Stone Summit and I can't tell you how impressive the level of climbing is in the qualifier rounds.  The youth climbing teams in the US are getting more and more organized and the athletes are really stepping it up. Today's routes for Jack and Lukas were a mix of some old and new routes.  The gyms walls still seem super high and it's hard to climb so strong and precise on these long routes.

Lukas was first up for the Bend Climbing Team and was climbing on the same wall and route as Jack did yesterday.  After watching the demo climber and a few extra climbers Lukas felt that he had the route pretty well sussed out but was still nervous about the long moves out the horizontal roof.  Lukas had some great flow through the opening sequence and the first crux. He moved well through the direction change on the roof but fell after a couple power moves pulling the lip.  His hard work put him into 6th place after qualifiers and will be moving on to semi-finals tomorrow.

Jack's route today found him off the horizontal and onto some steep sections with some dead vertical thrown in for good measure.  After watching some other climbers and figuring out the moves Jack was ready to tie in and give it his best.  The start of his climb was steep but on good holds, sticking to his plan Jack climbed smooth and fast through the steep section to an awkward rest and shake just under halfway and before the first crux.  After some chalk he was into some hard moves but not stopper. a wrong foot placement and body position forced Jack into a harder than it should have been move where he fell throwing to a pocket.  Jack finished the two day qualifier round in 30th place which means he doesn't advance to semi-finals.  We're all extremely proud to say that Jack finished 30th in the NATION in the Male Youth C category.  Way to go Jack!

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