Bend Climbing Team: ABS 12 Youth National Championships

Here's the report for semi-finals and finals for the Bend Climbing Team at the 2011 ABS 12 Youth Bouldering National Championships. When we last left our fearless four climbers Tristan, Walker, and Lukas were moving on to semi-finals. For a report on the qualifier round see the previous post below. Semi-finals had the top 16 climbers from each category out on the walls battling it out on 3 routes with 5 mins per route.

Lukas was 1st out for the Bend Climbing Team and proceeded to put on a show for everyone in the house with a massive fall from a dyno on route #1 20 feet above the mats! Lukas was pretty shaken up as he landed on the spotter and his wrist and face took the Asana pads head on. Calling it good with one attempt he proceeded to pull himself together climbing strong on #2 and #3 and moving on to finals in 4th place.

Lukas on semi-finals #1

Walker was next out of isolation and came into semis in 1st place in male youth c. He made quick work of route #1 on a steep section of the wall climbing around two Motivation Volumes. Route #2 Walker made a strong flash attempt dynoing onto the roof and falling trying to pull out from under it. Route #3 Walker gracefully dispatched on his first attempt and had him moving into finals in 6th place.

Walker walking his way up semi-finals #3

Tristan was last out for the team in the male youth b category. I'm not sure what these kids in other parts of the US eat or drink, but these 14 and 15 year olds are huge! The routesetters had these guys working hard to make it up the walls. Tristan flashed a cool #1 problem with a sweet campusing rose move. Problem #2 had the big boys on the slab climbing from massive sloper to massive sloper. Tristan got the send of problem #2 on attempt #2. Route #3 for the youth b climbers was a straight up burl fest! I'm pretty sure there wasn't a single send of this route. Even though Tristan climber super strong and smart after day 2 he was in 10th place and wouldn't be moving on to Finals.

Tristan on his way to flashing semi-finals #1

Finals had the top 8 climbers gunning for the US team and the podium. Lukas held it together for one more day flashing #1, establishing a temporary highpoint on #2, and flashing #3! This stellar performance combined with the prior two days of strong climbing landed him a spot on the US team and a 3rd place finish!

Lukas working his way up route #3 in finals

Walker came out strong cruising up #1 but fell right before the finish hold. After a well timed rest he hopped back on and was quickly matching the finish hold. #2 for the male c climbers pitted them against the slab and slopers with a precise body tension climb with a dynamic move in the middle. Walker gave it two strong attempts but fell at the 2nd to last hold and smartly called it good and rested up for the last climb. After a fall on his flash burn from the finish hold of #3 Walker hopped back on sticking the opening dyno and was soon matching the finish hold after a series of powerful moves on a steep wall. Walkers three days of climbing found him in 5th place in the nation for the male youth c category and a spot on the US team!

Walker on finals #1

The whole weekend and comp was perhaps the best ABS Nationals I've been to in the past five years. The non-gym venue is a huge welcomed change as it allows for comfortable viewing and I don't have to be thinking of a plan of escape in the event of a fire. The brand new walls built by Vertical Solutions had a great variety of angles and provided a great canvass for the setters. The routes seemed to be quality for the most part and had great flow and did a good job of separating out the field. Although there is some debate of how high is too high for our youth climbers to boulder I think the setters did a great job for the most part in regards to safety. I'm still liking the addition to slab climbing to comps as it rounds out the skills that the competitors need in order to place well. It was a great comp and the Bend Climbing Team was glad to see so many of our other PNW climbers representing in finals. While we all compete against each other at the local comps it's great to have the support and cheering of fellow PNW climbers, coaches, and parents helping us up the walls!
Another huge stand out at the comp was Abby's father and all-star volunteer/spotter Jay Black. Jay was out there on the pads all day and every day of the 3 day comp keeping all the climbers safe!